Welcome to the Real World Cycle Tour 2009

Dec 22, 2009 - Salome to Gilbert, AZ

2009-12-31T15:09:00.000-08:00

One word scribbled in my journal this evening: "Epic!" .... My first double metric century on this tour..... the day included waiting out a thunderstorm at a gas station in Tonopah, a teeth-rattling 9-mile stretch of washboarded dirt road west of Buckeye, and 3 fl_t tires.

Weather was a grab-bag: Grey, low clouds and sprinkles of rain in the morning on the Salome Hwy, warm sunshine mid-morning; Around midday, storm clouds race into the Phoenix valley from the west, high winds, thunder, rain, and blowing dust....then back to sunshine by late afternoon...!

A strong westerly wind blowing me into Phoenix in late afternoon, the storm just ahead of me soaking the valley.

Cotton bales in Buckeye, west of Phoenix

Long shadows eastbound on Buckeye Road

Late afternoon, the staff at the Visitors Center in Buckeye helping me chart a course east across the city to Gilbert, 60 miles away. Instead of holding up here as I had originally planned, I decide to push on to Jeff's house; The wind is favorable, so GO FOR IT!.... Through Avondale and Liberty, Phoenix, Tempe, then Mesa. Evening, I'm in the 'numb' zone....nothing will stop me now...not even the 3 fl_t tires I get before rolling into my brother's driveway.

While traveling down the Pacific Coast, I often thought about coming home to Arizona....I thought about how great it would be to see my family, and to spend the holidays with them. But until yesterday, when I crossed the Colorado River, and saw that sign: "Phoenix 153 Miles", I didn't really think I was gonna make it home in time for the holidays. Things just went right.....I call Jeff from a convenience store at 40th Ave and Baseline Rd...he says "Come ahead!".....

Photo of my bike computer showing 200.05 kilometers on the trip odometer; Taken 8:45 PM, on Gilbert Road, a half a mile from my brother's house

Dec 21, 2009: Into Arizona !

2009-12-31T07:55:00.000-08:00

Just after crossing the bridge over the Rio Colorado, Parker, Arizona

Sunrise, campsite off Highway 62

Vidal Junction

Crossing Rio Colorado into Arizona

Rio Colorado

Long day, arrived in Hope, Arizona at 6:30 PM....Stopped in at the Victory Lane Cafe at the junction of Hwy 72 and Hwy 60 for a short stack of pancakes and coffee, then cycled northeast on Hwy 60 to Salome, AZ.

Dec 20, 2009 - Joshua Tree to Rice

2009-12-31T06:47:00.000-08:00

Today there will be a few more minutes of daylight than yesterday; Tonight will be a little shorter than last night. Touring in the shorter days of winter can be a challenge. At this time of year, it seems as if the day is only just started,.... and then it's time to start looking for a campsite again. Long nights spent in the tent, with nothing to do but read and sleep.

The Mojave: Flat valleys stretched between low reddish-brown jumbles of volcanic rock; Sagebrush and creosote and smokebush and sand

Morning sun hits the snowcovered San Bernadino mountains, Joshua Tree

Sheep Hole Mountains, Highway 62

At milepost 103 on Highway 62, Danny and his dog Jimmy are camped in a roadside pullout; They spend their days pedalling up and down the highway picking up plastic bottles, glass, and aluminum cans; The sign on the back of his bike trailer reads: "Recycling our Highways. Anything Appreciated". He has a small tent, a propane cooker set up on makeshift table, tobacco and a corn cob pipe, cases of bottled water...."I'm out here fer another 3 weeks, y'see"....He explains his arrangement with the county, a sly smile breaks from beneath his handebar mustache: "They come out and pick up my recyclables, then I pick up my money in Blythe"....

Camp, Mojave Desert

Dec 19, 2009 - Victorville to Joshua Tree

2009-12-30T01:02:00.000-08:00

Set out across the Mojave desert this morning; Filled every water container I carry at Twenty Nine Palms, the sign leaving town warns "Next services 100 miles"; Passing through Yucca Valley,then east to Joshua Tree National Park

Chimney Rock, Highway 247

Somewhere in the Mojave

Resting after lunch, near Giant Rock

Dec 18, 2009 - Soledad Canyon to Victorville

2009-12-30T00:34:00.000-08:00

Said goodbye this morning to Uli, Sabine, and Mark, my touring companions for the last month. We will be taking different roads from here - they're headed south towards El Centro, then into Mexico and down the Baja Peninsula.

Travelling the Pacific Coast Bike Route with them was such a great experience. I was glad that they didn't just follow the 'bible' ( "Bicycling the Pacific Coast" )....sometimes it's better to find your own road, to travel at your own pace.

Soledad Canyon Road, near Acton

After two days cycling into the Santa Ana winds, I was greeted by this sign on the outskirts of Littlerock,...

Dec 17, 2009 - Fillmore to Soledad Canyon

2009-12-29T22:57:00.000-08:00

"Revenge of the Santa Anas" : Today we meet the famous Santa Ana winds, rushing down the western slopes of the San Gabriel mountains towards the Pacific. Is this Neptune's divine retribution for turning our backs on the Pacific? Battling the heavy winds all day, through Santa Clarita, and up Soledad Canyon Road. In our campground tonight, we listen to the roar of lions, coming from the wild animal park just a mile up the canyon.

Santa Clara River ( Did you spot the heron wading in the river?)

Ballin' the jack - Soledad Canyon Road

In late afternoon, I stop in at the Rio Market for a rest and a cold drink. A fellow cycle-tourist, heavily loaded and headed in the opposite direction, stops in for a break. He is Kokoro Ito, circumnavigating the globe by bicycle. He writes a regular travel piece which is published in a couple of Japanese newspapers, and apparently he is somewhat of a celebrity in Japan. On his panniers are painted the names of countries he's visited. If you happen to read Japanese, you can check out his travel blog here

Koko, the famous journalist and cycle-tourist

Dec 16, 2009 - Ventura to Fillmore

2009-12-29T22:08:00.000-08:00

At Ventura, California, I've decided to leave the Pacific Coast Bike Route and head east, skirting north of L.A., cross the San Gabriel mountains and into the Mojave Desert. I will head for southern Arizona to visit the old homestead - hope to spend the holidays with my family.

A rendezvous this morning with friends Shari and Ken in old downtown Ventura, reviewing maps over coffee; Shari plots a course for us, following the valley east to Santa Clarita, then up through Soledad Canyon over Soledad Pass.

Shari and Ken escorted us through Ventura

Groves of citrus and avocado (Yeah!) cover the bottom of the Santa Clara river valley

To Shari and Ken: Many thanks for all your help in planning out our route east, and for the escort to Santa Paula.

Dec 15, 2009 - Lompoc to Santa Barbara

2009-12-27T22:06:00.000-08:00

The morning spent climbing up and out of Lompoc Valley in warm sunshine, ascending to a pass, then dropping down to Highway 101 and through a narrow canyon of orange-colored rock, rejoining the Pacific Coast Highway 1 again at Gaviota.

Lunch spot at the rest area off Highway 101 near Gaviota

Coastline near Refugio State Beach

El Capitan State Beach

Mark leads us into the campground at El Capitan State Beach.

View across to Channel Islands from El Capitan SB

Uli disgusted tonight with the insult of the hike-in/bike-in site, nothing but a washed-out dirt lot. Like so many of the other state parks, they put bike-in campers in the worst sites. "Not even any grass....A tent site should at least have grass"...so we take one of the regular sites. Below our pitch, the surf pounds, the clattering of undertow pulling across the stones on the beach; A huge turkey vulture soars above us in late afternoon, his wing feathers tipped in white on the underside.

Sunset, El Capitan State Campground

Sunrise, view of Channel Islands

The 'Bible' for the Pacific Coast Bike Route....."You must follow the book!"

Sun, sand, and surf - Santa Barbara

View of Santa Barbara from Stearns Wharf

Cabrillo Blvd, Santa Barbara

Bike path, Santa Barbara

2009-12-24T00:50:00.001-08:00

Merry Christmas to all, and to all, a good ride!

Dec 13, 2009 - Morro Bay to Lompoc

2009-12-24T00:50:00.000-08:00

I reunited with fellow ToC Course Marshall Janet, and caught her son's soccer match at the High School in Morro Bay. Later I had dinner with her family at their favorite Chinese food restaurant in Los Osos. Thanks so much to Janet and her family for their hospitality.

From Morro Bay, a beautiful route inland up through Los Osos Valley, passing the string of morros ( volcanic mounds ) to San Luis Obispo, then back out to the coast and Pismo Beach, where we spend three days waiting out a big Pacific storm; After the rains, our campsite at Oceano is mostly underwater, so we are forced to move our camp to higher ground.

Met this gentleman on the road outside of Pismo Beach.

Fuel stop at Guadalupe

A message left on the road at the top of Harris Grade

Dec 8, 2009 - San Simeon to Morro Bay

2009-12-23T09:58:00.000-08:00

Morning, heading out from campsite at San Simeon

Visited breeding grounds of a colony of elephant seals at Piedras Blancas. This is a younger bull, coming ashore....sometimes the young bucks will try to challenge the older bulls for their harems

A female elephant seal, bored with the whole scene

Had to stop in at the famous Cambria Bike Outfitters in Cambria, CA

"The Rock" at Morro Bay....A north wind was howling when we arrived at Morro Bay State Park - I thought one of the trees in our campsite might come crashing down on me in my tent....

Monarch butterflys winter over here

Morning, packing up at Morro Bay

December 6, 2009 - Kirk Cove to San Simeon

2009-12-23T09:28:00.000-08:00

Sunny road ahead, near Gorda

Pacific Coast Highway at it's best

Sabine and fellow southbounder Bastian, near Ragged Point

Bastian climbing

Uli, Sabine and Bastian, descent to Ragged Point

Circling up the wagons, Ragged Point

Dec 5, 2009 - And still MORE Big Sur coast

2009-12-23T08:45:00.000-08:00

Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park, Pacific Coast Highway 1

Big Sur...I love it

Bike-in campsite this way! Pfieffer Campground, Big Sur

A Stellers Jay tries to make off with my bag of peanuts,...while I'm eatin' 'em! Pretty bold !

South of Lucia

Campsite at Kirk Cove

Dec 4, 2009 - More Big Sur coast

2009-12-23T08:19:00.000-08:00

Uli and Sabine's tour began 21 months ago in Vienna, Austria. They crossed from eastern Europe into Asia, crossed southern China, and eventually made their way to southeast Asia - Laos, Thailand ( a 15-month trip...and yes, all by bicycle ). From Thailand, they flew to Anchorage, and began heading south, following the Alaska Highway - That's where I first met them, back in August. I was on my way north to Fairbanks, and they were heading south to the Cassiar Hwy,... we met briefly in a cafe over breakfast. 4 months later, I found them again on the Pacific Coast Bike Route!! They are true adventurers, and I have enjoyed so much sharing their company.

Uli humps it up a climb, Big Sur coast

Big Creek Bridge, Big Sur coast

Uli and I, Big Sur coast

Dec 4, 2009 - Monterey to Big Sur

2009-12-12T15:01:00.000-08:00

Resting, Monterey Bay

Restless sea, Seventeen Mile Drive, south of Pacfic Grove

Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, Carmel

Big Sur coastline

The wild Big Sur coastline

Dec 2, 2009 - Santa Cruz

2009-12-12T14:47:00.000-08:00

I follow the migration of Humpbacks and Gray whales, Sandhill cranes, Canada geese, Monarch butterflys, elephant seals, sea lions, seabirds, headed for warmer climes, to breed, feed, and lie about in Mexican sun...we're all making the same trek from Alaska down the Pacific coast

Watching surfers north of Santa Cruz

Swanton Berry Farm, near Davenport. Amazing cheesecake, and bicyclists get a 10% discount!

Surfer monument, Santa Cruz

Dec 3, 2009 - San Francisco to Santa Cruz

2009-12-12T14:25:00.000-08:00

Sabine, Uli, and Mark exiting south from the Golden Gate Bridge on Lincoln Blvd

Summit at Devils Slide, Pacific Coast Highway

Bluffs near San Gregorio

Lighthouse, Pigeon Point

View of coastline south from Pigeon Point

Nov 30, 2009 - Crossing the Golden Gate

2009-12-12T13:56:00.000-08:00

Sunrise, San Francisco city skyline

The group, and The Gate

Nov 29, 2009 - San Francisco

2009-12-11T13:17:00.000-08:00

View of the Gate and the city skyline from Marin Headlands

Uli and I take the bikes into the city for the day, cycling over the ridge of the headlands, then descending down Conzelman Rd to the entrance to the Golden Gate Bridge bike way...Thanksgiving holiday weekend, bike traffic thick crossing the bridge.....the lycra carbon fiber bling racers weave in and out between throngs of tourists on rental bikes wobbling along the bikeway....one guy passes me on a full-on time trial rig, down in the aero position, jacked into his Ipod....

We cycle past Chrissy Field, the Presidio, east on Lombard, then south on Valencia into Mission District...no better way to explore San Francisco than on a bicycle.
Mark, Uli, Sabine and I return the next day by bus, spend the day walking the city, to the Embarcadero, then up Broadway, past the classy strip joints, and into Chinatown ... cheap delicious Dim Sum, pushing through wads of smiling Chinese who bark their orders to the shopkeepers of the amazing fish and produce markets....dried sea cucumbers heaped in boxes, salted dried fish, every creature in the sea for sale....

Uli and Sabine crossing the Golden Gate Bridge

Columbia and Broadway - the famous City Lights bookstore

Statue of Mahatma Ghandi at the Embarcadero, Bay Bridge in background. the inscription reads:

"Non-violence is the greatest force at the disposal of Mankind. It is the supreme law. By it alone can mankind be saved."

You's Dim Sum in Chinatown - Try the Pork buns

Hanging lanterns - Chinatown

Stonework above the entrance to Pacific Gas and Electric Building

Golden Gate Bridge at night from Marin Headlands

Nov 28, 2009 - Marin Headlands to "The Gate"

2009-12-10T16:18:00.000-08:00

In late afternoon, cycling along the waterfront in Sausalito; the road opening out onto the view of the bay: San Francisco´s skyline, Alcatraz out in the middle of the bay, the Oakland Bay Bridge behind....and over it all - a perfect rainbow. People stopping, getting out of their cars to get a photo....

Turning right out of Sausalito, a steep climb up Richardson Ave, the road bending around to the west.... and there it is: "The Gate": The Golden Gate Bridge. Crossing it has been a big goal for me since starting out at Port Hardy, B.C. We arrive at Marin Headlands in the Golden Gate National Rec Area just as the sun is setting....

Stepping through the screen of cypress trees that surround our campsite, view of "The Gate" with the San Francisco skyline behind.

Nov 26, 2009 - Bodega Bay to Lagunitas Creek

2009-12-10T15:53:00.000-08:00

Coastline north of Bodega Bay

Pier at Nicks Cove, Tomales Bay, Point Reyes National Seashore

Valley Ford, CA

Hiding out in a redwood trunk, Samuel P. Taylor Campground, Lagunitas Creek, CA

Nov 25, 2009 - Crossing the Russian River

2009-12-10T14:49:00.000-08:00

Pacific Coast Highway, near Fort Ross, CA

Looking south towards Bodega Bay.

Sonoma coast, a long winding ascent up sketchy roads, the most dramatic views yet of the California coastline today, can see forever to the south, warm sun on steep grassy slopes that fold in and out, like you could step off Highway 1 and drop into the surf from here.

Pacific Coast Highway crosses the Russian River south of Jenner, CA

Nov 24 - Gualala to Stillwater Cove

2009-12-10T14:26:00.000-08:00

A reunion of southbounders today at Stewarts Point...there are the South Bound Nomads from Vachon Island, WA, and Carlo, from Germany ( no one is quite sure where Carlo is heading...), and there are two young fellas from Richmond, Virginia, who cycled to Vancouver, B.C., now headed south down the Pacific coast to somewhere in southern California. We sit out front of the General Store in Stewarts Point talking, eating, catching up, basking in gorgeous sunshine.

Greg from Vachon Island told me "We saw your scribble in the bike shop in Fort Bragg, and I told the boys, 'We gotta catch him!'"....

Sunset, Stillwater Cove, CA.

Nov 23, 2009 - Point Arena to Gualala

2009-12-10T13:35:00.000-08:00

Point Arena Lighthouse

Shady cypress road, near Point Arena

Passing under cypress groves

Headlands at Point Arena, CA

Our campsite in a grove of California Bay Laurel trees, Gualala, CA (The fragrance was wonderful!)

Nov 21, 2009 - Fort Bragg to Mendocino

2009-12-10T13:10:00.000-08:00

Misty morning coast, Mendocino County....lovely coastal scenery here, small farms, agriculture and goats, cattle, sheep grazing...Hot, hazy air, dry grasslands, huge top-heavy cypress in rows.

Uli ascending the "Steepest Climb on the Pacific Coast Bike Route", just south of Elk, CA.

View north to Salmon Point

Sabine and Uli, near Manchester, CA

Nov 20, 2009 - Legget to Fort Bragg - Back on Highway 1

2009-12-10T12:11:00.000-08:00

Highway 1, California coast, near Westport

Stop at Fort Bragg Cyclery

Earlier this year, I spent a couple of weeks in California working as a volunteer for the Tour of California. When I arrived for the Prologue in Sacramento, the California Legislature was sequestered in the capitol building trying to pass a budget....some of them were sleeping there. Here I am in California 10 months later, and the state's flat broke. Some of the State Parks we've encountered have been closed indefinitely, others are partially closed or offering "reduced services".....But even with the current budget cuts, the hike-in/bike-in sites that are open have been awesome. Five bucks gets you a site and a picnic table - coin operated showers are another 50 cents for 5 minutes of hot (usually) water.

Nov 18, 2009 - Avenue of the Giants, Humboldt Redwoods, CA

2009-12-10T11:49:00.000-08:00

Met three other south-bound cyclists today, and decided I would throw in with them for a while. Uli from Austria and Sabine from Germany, are headed for Panama, and Mark, from BC, is headed for the Yucatan Peninsula, and then Cuba.
We passed through the impressive Humboldt Redwoods forest together, then camped in amongst them for a night.
After tents are pitched, meals prepared, everyone situated, we sit around the picnic table chatting...How wonderful to have company in camp tonight! Share a bottle of wine with dinner....I drink one glass, go to bed pleasurably buzzed....

Nov 16, 2009 - California Redwood National Park

2009-11-21T14:27:00.000-08:00

Pacific Coast Bike Route, near Crescent City, CA

What to do when you need a break from the road? Climb a tree!

Pedalling under giants, Redwoods National Park, CA

Nnov 15, 2009 - Coquille Point to Brookings, Oregon

2009-11-16T10:21:00.000-08:00

Face Rock, near Bandon, OR

Arch Rock, OR

Hiking the Coast Trail, Indian Sands, OR

Nov 13, 2009 - Pass the cranberries...

2009-11-16T09:51:00.000-08:00

Many cranberry bog farms here on the south coast of Oregon; Trucks pass me overloaded with cranberries just harvested, water spilling from the back....they leave a steady trail of cranberries on the shoulder. South of Coos Bay, The Oregon Coast Bike Route directs cyclists onto something called Seven Devils Road...10 miles of steep rollers through a clear-cut forest I'd recommend skipping it and staying on Hwy 101..

Oregon Dunes National Rec Area

McCoullough Memorial Bridge, North Bend, OR

May all seven of 'em burn in hell....

Cranberry bog

Nov 10, 2009 - Somewhere, over the rainbow....Oregon Coast Bike Route (continued)

2009-11-15T18:19:00.000-08:00

Heceta Head Lighthouse

Sunset - Waldport, Oregon

Honestly, I would have been dryer swimming the Oregon coast instead of cycling it. ..not like I didn't expect this weather, October and November being two of the rainiest months of the year in the Pacific Northwest. In spite of the rain and wind, I'm still enjoying this wild and rocky Oregon coast....

Heceta Head lighthouse viewpoint....Thousands of sea lions lying on the beach in the cove just to the south of the lighthouse....I heard their barking long before I saw them. Every so often, something would unsettle the herd; Panic would ensue and set them to running, the ripple of movement spreading through the herd as they waddle en mass towards the sea. The massive buff-coloured cows congregating higher up on shore, lolling and belching, the young pups bodysurfing...

After the rain, Hwy 101, near Newport, Oregon

Nov 9, 2009 - Orgeon Coast Bicycle Route

2009-11-11T18:37:00.000-08:00

Consulting the map in Gaston, Orgeon

Stop for lunch at the very popular Otis Cafe in Otis, Oregon. After trying the walnut waffles, I can see why folks were lined up outside the joint..

Takin' a break at Lincoln City, on Highway 101 at Lincoln City

Another storm along the Oregon coast

There are lots of bridges to cross travelling the Oregon Coastal route.

Near the aptly-named Cape Foulweather, looking south along the Orgeon coast

Nov 8, 2009 - Portland - Reunited with Gary and Vicki

2009-11-11T12:11:00.000-08:00

Reunited in Portland with friends Gary and Vicki...

So great to see them both again, and to find them loving the life here.
I'd been looking forward to visiting them since I left Alaska. Hard to believe I'm here, in Oregon,...wasn't it just yesterday I was planning my route south down Vancouver Island and Washington's Olympic Peninsula to reach here....

I seem to be going against my best cycling touring instincts these days.....and my ride into Portland is no exception. I call Vicki in the morning, she gives me their address. I arrive on the outskirts of Portland after dark, pedalling under St. Johns Bridge and into downtown; Inquiring at a bike shop about a route into Beaverton, the proprietor advises I take Lovejoy/Cornell Rd over the hill: A 4 mile climb, with tunnels, no shoulder, lots of traffic...in the dark....sounds great! Why I didn't hold up outside the city at a campground, I cannot say.

Instead, I grunted up the climb, though I was feeling pretty cooked already....bonking three quarters of the way up the climb, I pulled over, dug an apple and some nuts out of my handlebar bag, and stood there on the roadside, my legs shaking, cramming food in.

Once descended from the top of the hill into Beaverton, I make my way to Gary and Vicki's place. They give me a warm welcome, feed me manicotti and a delicious insalata pomodorri. The last time we were together was in Cherokee, N.C., after having ridden for 9 days together along the Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway.

The Gunnar gets some much-needed TLC - cleaning and lube. Gary's and his son Brian's arsenal of bicycles in the background.....

Sunday morning, Gary and friend Allan give me a "fixie" escort out of town.

Thank you Gary and Vicki, for everything: For the helmet, the lovely dinner at Pastini, and most of all, for your friendship. I look forward to our next meeting....

Nov 6, 2009 - Tacoma to Portland

2009-11-07T22:33:00.000-08:00

Thank you cousin John, Heidi, Gen, and Kerr for your gracious hospitality. I enjoyed so much meeting and getting to know everyone.....( how long had it been since cousin John and I had seen each other, we wondered? ). And a special 'Thanks' to Heidi for providing me with cue sheets and maps for the STP ( Seattle to Portland ) tour. Had a beautiful, quiet ride through the valleys and forests of western Washington, to the crossing of the mighty Columbia River at the Lewis & Clark Bridge at Longview, WA. I had pretty heavy headwinds much of the way - apparently the remnants of a storm system wreaking havoc along the Oregon/Washington coast.

An 'illegal' photograph: Lewis & Clark Bridge over the Columbia River ( The sign says: "No voluntary stopping allowed while crossing bridge.")

Crossing into Oregon at the Lewis and Clark Bridge over the Columbia River....Beginning the long slow grade onto the bridge from the Washington side, a cold rain is falling, skies gray and angry....Exiting the bridge on the Oregon side, warm sunshine and blue skies!!! Oh what a difference a bridge makes.

Approach ramp to Lewis and Clark Bridge at Longview, WA

Soaking up some sunshine in Rainier, Oregon, watching the Columbia River roll by on it's way to the Pacific

Nov 2, 2009 - Tacoma

2009-11-07T21:14:00.000-08:00

Spent an afternoon pedalling around downtown Tacoma, The Museum of Glass, approached from the Chihuly Bridge of Glass...amazing glass forms in shadowboxes, backlit by the afternoon sun; a glass drop ceiling filled with organic shapes sculpted in colored glass; Emerging from the covered bridge, an impressive view of Mt. Rainier

Nov 2, 2009 - Day trip to Seattle

2009-11-04T09:19:00.000-08:00

I hop on the bus into downtown Tacoma this morning, then transfer to the express bus headed for downtown Seattle. My mission: Locate Cascade Designs headquarters in the industrial area south of Seattle: I busted the fuel line on my camp stove in Alaska, so I shipped it to the company, and, figuring I'd eventually pass through Seattle on my way south, instructed them to hold it for me until I arrived to pick it up.

After picking up my new Whisperlite stove, I headed up 4th Street north into downtown Seattle...past Quest Field and Safeco field, passing under the tangled mass of freeway interchanges and overpasses before reaching the city...to Pioneer Square, the waterfront, Pike Street Market...a little Asian fellow there sings a hilarious version of Elvis' "I'm all Shook Up", accompanied by a joyous drunken woman who slurs along - she is having some difficulty staying upright.
The public market is a sensory treat; the colors, the smells, the heady buzz of commerce ....and the flying fish, of course.

A vivid flashback while wandering through the market, recalling my visit here when I was perhaps 8 or 9 years old, summer vacation, the family taking a road trip to Seattle in our old Dodge Valiant.....

Nov 1, 2009 - Tacoma, WA

2009-11-04T00:45:00.000-08:00

The whole Forier family - Gen, Heidi, Kerr and John - ready for the school day

Climbing the long hill east out of downtown Olympia, then rolling through quiet farm country; Past a field filled with Canadian Geese - a pit stop on their journey south. After crossing the Nisqualey River, head northeast along the Sound into Tacoma;

I head to the Charles Wright Academy, arriving just after noon, where I meet up with my cousin John, whom I have not seen in....well, a very long time...( neither of us can remember the last time we were together...) I get the tour of the beautiful new Performing and Language Arts building on the top of the hill above the campus. John is in the final week of preparation for the school's upcoming production of the play "Rhinoceros" ("Tech week") - set construction, dialing in lighting and sound, and rehearsals all going on at once. I spend the afternoon helping the crew paint the main set piece for the play.

Mt. Rainier rises up all alone on the southeast horizon, right before sunset....spectacular.

This evening, I shared a lovely dinner with John, Heidi, Genevieve, and Kerr. Kerr careening around the house with boundless energy......making new words all the time.

Kerr brings a real intensity to the dining table...

Oct 30, 2009 - Olympia, WA

2009-11-04T00:10:00.000-08:00

On highway 12 between Aberdeen and Olympia, I met southbounders Vicki and Matt. Matt started his tour in Toronto, on June 6th...the same day I started from Laval, Quebec! He crossed Canada, then joined up with Vicki in Vancouver, and together they headed south...."Maybe L.A.", says Vicki..."we're just looking for someplace warm." Sing it, sister!

"Bagged" another state capitol!....Resting on the Capitol Mall in Olympia.

Sunset, Olympia, WA

Oct. 28, 2009 - The Pacific Coast! Ruby Beach

2009-11-03T10:26:00.000-08:00

Following the Hoh River valley west this morning....then, hearing the roar of the surf, feeling the thumping of waves collapsing onto the beach, the smell of salt and wet cedar; I crest the cliff above Ruby Beach, looking out through the forest to the Pacific Ocean below; The sea grey-green, churning and foaming, slashing against the outlying rock formations; Massive sea stacks topped with little clusters of spruce trees to the north, long seperated from the land; Smaller rock formations orphaned along the sand beach; stacks of driftwood piled along shore.

I've reached the wet edge of the North American continent, a milestone. Through southeast Alaska and British Columbia, I've travelled the straits and passages bounded to the west by islands. At last, here is Il Mare Pacifico in all her restless glory.....

Rolling south following heavily wooded coastline, passing shallow sheltered coves and inlets, stretches of open beach;

"The Big Cedar" in Olmypic National Forest, just north of Kalaloch Lodge.

Today was one of those days that fools you: In the early part of the day, pleasant weather, scenic coastline, spectacular sections of the 101 Highway wrapping down the Pacific coast, even some hazy sunshine after lunch.

An hour later, I'm headed inland on a steady uphill grade; Clouds pressed down over the hilltops, a misting rain falling, my glasses constantly fogged and spotted with water drops. Logging trucks scream past me one after another - big thundering terrors with tandem trailers loaded high with stacks of massive timber. Their size and speed creates a terrifying air-suck, which might rip the bike out of my hands.

Huge areas of clear cutting surrounding the National Park and Forest land boundaries. Watching the endless parade of logging trucks racing back and forth across the peninsula, I wonder how there could be any timber left here?

A little after 5:00 PM: "Pfssshhhhh.....", a flat tire. Seems a fitting end to the day, somehow. I dismount, hauling the bike down an old logging road, away from the main road, and pitch for the night.

Oct 26, 2009 - Hoh Rain Forest

2009-11-02T09:28:00.000-08:00

Following the Hoh River Valley east into Olympic National Park....old-growth forest of spruce, fir, big-leaf maple and cedars, lush understory of ferns and mosses; Walking the trails through the rain forest; The Hall of Mosses.....Could there be living trees underneath all that drapery of moss? Moisture dripping from the trees...ferns sprouting from everywhere, growing out of tree trunks and branches..... spotted "Swamp Thing" lurking among the trees (?)....

Encountered a herd of bull Elk grazing near the river.....a HUGE bull lying in the grass chewing his cud... he seemed uninterested in me and my rig, but I kept a safe distance anyway.....That rack of his looked like it could definitely do some damage!

Oct 25, 2009 - Port Angeles

2009-11-02T08:47:00.000-08:00

Victoria's Inner Harbor from the deck of the MV Coho

Shared the morning ferry ride from Victoria harbor to Port Angeles with another cycle tourist returning from Alaska, headed for San Francisco....looking south as we glide into Port Angeles, the Olympic Range socked in with clouds and rain....

Cycling west along Highway 101 through Olympic National Park, around the southern shoreline of Lake Crescent.

Camped tonight with the South Bound Nomads - Josh, Greg, and Wiley, from Vachon Island - they're headed south to California, then into Mexico.

I joined them for the ride into Forks, WA, where we splurged on burgers, pizza, and chocolate malts.

Apparently, the town of Forks has become a site of pilgrimage....Carloads of teenage girls cruise the streets, stopping to take photographs of the parking lot where Edward the perfectly-quaffed vegetarian vampire once parked his car.... 'Twilight-mania' has struck the Olympic Peninsula.

Oct 23, 2009 - Victoria, B.C.

2009-10-30T16:41:00.000-07:00

Wandering gorgeous Victoria; From the Inner Harbour and the Parliment buildings, to the top of the hill and Craigdarroch Castle; The Empress Hotel, draped in flaming red clinging ivy; Market on Yates, Chinatown; A busker singing and playing guitar on Douglas St, the narrow street and granite buildings making for marvelous acoustics - live music a comfort on the road.

A demonstration in downtown Victoria - part of the International Day of Climate Action ....A huge parade of people on all types of bicycles ride through the city center, raising awareness, calling for action on the climate crisis. .

Oct 22, 2009 - Chemainus to Cowichan Bay

2009-10-30T16:40:00.001-07:00

Stopped for lunch in Chemainus, a town 'world famous' for it's murals; the walls of many of the town's buildings covered in murals created by local B.C. artists....

An impressionist-style mural dedicated to the "Hermit" of Chemainus, walking along a forest path.

Through Cowichan Bay, lots of organic farming and vineyards here; The town is a sister city of a small village in Italy - the two villages are partners in the "Slow Citta" movement ( Slow City...as in Slow food ). The baguettes and croissants at the True Grains Bread bakery in town were amazing. An artisinal cheese shop next door....the place is all about locally produced, quality, "slow" food.....very special.

Watching native fisherman on a bridge over the Cowichan river, using long spears to catch spawning Coho and Pink salmon.

Arrive late afternoon at Mill Bay in a drizzling rain; From there, I ferried across to Brentwood Bay on the Saanich Peninsula, then cycled into Victoria, arriving in the late evening. From the visitors center, a fantastic view of the inner harbour and the Parliment buildings outlined in lights.

Oct 21, 2009 - Nanaimo, B.C.

2009-10-30T16:40:00.000-07:00

Watch the locals on the fishing pier tossing out their crab pots baited with chicken necks...then hauling them back in....Dungeness and the beautiful flaming Red Rock crabs are caught. The fishermen use a gauge to check the size to determine whether they are 'keepers' or must be returned to the sea....ropes of many crab pots tied along the pier. Watching float planes bound for Victoria take off from the harbour. "Susie" the local harbour seal comes looking for food handouts.

The center of the old harbour town of Nanaimo centers around the Bastion, a wooden tower originally built in 1853 by the Hudson Bay Company as an an outpost.

Oct 20, 2009 - Coombs

2009-10-26T15:54:00.000-07:00

Stopped in Coombs, a touristy little village on Hwy 4, famous apparently for "Goats on a Roof"...a herd of goats grazing on the roof of the general store there

Oct 14, 2009 - Sayward to Qualicum Falls, Vancouver Island

2009-10-24T13:15:00.000-07:00

A Stellers Jay has been shadowing me ever since leaving Port Hardy.....( could it be the same one, I wonder? ) Everytime I get off the bike, to eat, or rest, or pitch camp, there he is, perched in a nearby tree, head cocked, looking down at me.

Today, as I ate my lunch, he sat in a spruce tree above me, watching intently. I threw a piece of bread out on the table for him...He swooped down to it, but then thought better of it, flitting back to his perch without taking any.

Spent two days camped at Elk Creek Provincial Park with a fellow traveler from Huntsville, Ontario - he was hunting Chanterelle mushrooms in the mountains nearby; We shared a Canadian Thanksgiving meal together, sitting around the fire and talking about our travels. Cycling the north part of the island was a pretty lonely, wet affair, and I was glad to have the company.

Upper Falls, Qualicum Falls Provincial Park, Vancouver Island

Following the Island Highway 19 south to Campbell River, then on to the Comox Valley and Courtenay. North of Parksville, I turned west on Highway 4 heading into the interior of the island, visiting Qualicum Falls Provincial Park, and Cathedral Grove, an old-growth forest of massive Red Cedar and Douglas Fir....some of the trees over 800 years old.

Standing at the base of "The Big Tree", a giant Douglas Fir, 76 meters high and 9 feet in diameter

Oct 9, 2009 - Prince Rupert to Port Hardy, Vancouver Island

2009-10-24T13:01:00.000-07:00

Jeanne left a few days ago, headed to Tacoma to pay a visit to Scott and Heidi...from there, she will drive south to Albuquerque, then back to her home in Tucson. Meanwhile, I got busy reassembling The Mainframe, repacking my panniers, getting gear organized.
In the morning, I cycled out of Prince Rupert in a thick fog, headed for the ferry terminal south of town; Boarded the ferry bound for Port Hardy down the Inside Passage ...still feeling a bit low, adjusting to being solo a traveler again, after an amazing 6 weeks exploring Alaska with Jeanne....gonna have to get my cycle touring mojo workin' again.

Lake Louise to Jasper, Columbia Icefields

2009-10-24T12:57:00.000-07:00

Resting at Columbia Icefields, with the Athabasca Glacier in the background

Sestriere, Italy

2009-10-06T21:52:00.000-07:00

Andrew and I camped about 500 meters below the KOM on Sestriere, awaiting the arrival of the 2009 Giro. Our next-door neighbors were Anton and his lovely wife Elvira, from Germany. They wined us and dined us, fed us pasta, wine, coffee, and an authentic Lintzer Torte ( a gift from Elvira's daughter, who brought it all the way from Lintz, Austria! ).

Washburn, North Dakota

2009-10-06T15:56:00.000-07:00

Reached the Missouri River Valley at Washburn, ND

Arrival in Fairbanks

2009-10-06T15:46:00.000-07:00

At precisely 11:47 AM yesterday, Saturday, Aug 29th, I pedalled into the city of Fairbanks, Alaska,...Just as I passed the "Welcome to Fairbanks" sign, the sun broke through the clouds. What a feeling, to be welcomed into town by warm sunshine - especially after the last few days of rain and dreary grey skies.
After obigatory photos at the "Welcome to Fairbanks" sign, and a stop at the Visitors Center, I proceeded to the Chena River State Campground at the west end of town, where I found Jeanne in site #117 setting up her tent. A grand reunion, indeed...( actually a second reunion - she and Mary Lou passed me on the road between Tok and Delta Junction a few days ago ).
Jeanne and I celebrated last evening with a lovely dinner at an Italian place in historic downtown Fairbanks - I had Napolitano pizza, Jeanne had the Ravioli....Then we drove up the Old Steese Highway to the Silver Gulch Brewing Co. in Fox for a sampling of their craft beers -the Fairbanks Lager and Copper Creek Amber Ale were standouts.

It feels good to have met this challenge. I've gained confidence from the experience - reckon I'm prepared for something even bigger now: Anchorage to Argentina, Trans-Siberian.....
I hope you're all well...thanks to all who have emailed encouragement. It meant a lot to me.

I'll post more later.... Right now I've got to get my clothes from the laundromat next door....At this moment, I'm wearing only my tuk and Smartwool socks,...( the only clean stuff I had left !).....and the folks in the coffeeshop are staring ;?)
My best to all of you....Doug in Fairbanks

Day Zero -1

2009-04-06T22:45:00.000-07:00

I set up my new home on the lawn next to the boathouse, and have spent the last few nights in it ..I call it "Camp Zero"

Storm last night dropped 6 inches of wet, heavy snow. The Nallo GT stood up well to the snow load....think it's ready for Belgian spring conditions.

I plan on taking one last long, hot shower this evening....

Day 1 Brussels, Belgium

2009-04-06T20:56:00.000-07:00

First stop: Brussels, Belgium.

A visit to the Museum of Cacao and Chocolate in Brussels,....stumbled on this wonderful little place down a side street off the Grand Place....fascinating history of chocolate. From the preparation of the drink used in Aztec human sacrfice ritual ( "How bout a nice cup of hot cocoa... before we flay you alive?" ) to it's introduction in Europe in the 1500's...A demonstration on making creme-filled Easter eggs by a real Belgian chocolatier. I was greeted at the door by a lovely girl holding a biscuit coated in melted dark chocolate.